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Succulent sea food, vibrant flavours and plenty of contented diners - Joanna Blythman discovers real Chinese food in grown-up surroundings
SUNDAY HERALD

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Next time I go to the Ho Wong, (soon, I hope) I'm going to take along a tape recorder to capture the satisfying sound of clinking plates, chopsticks tapping on bowls, sizzling platters and the mellow conversation hum of many contented diners. By way of soundtrack designed to provoke relaxation, it would be up there with New Age lapping waves and calling dolphins.
Perhaps its reaction to trendy stripped-floor restaurant where there's nothing to absorb the sound. Either the place is empty, in which case it feels like eating in a cathedral, or it's busy in which event it sounds like a reverberating school canteen when the first year boys arrive.

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